Hamptons Epicure: Achieving ‘Good Food Period’ in Mattituck

Lucho Mahalia and Chef Allison Kath (aka “Ali Kath”) opened Good food. just off of Matchsticks famous Love Lane last June. The lunchtime lines for their made-from-scratch panaceas, soups, salads, quiche and sandwiches were soon 20 people deep! Mahalia says that “the people waiting in line were all nice about it.” She continues, “I love the community—it’s great. We use mainly local produce and we have some people who eat here every single day.” So it’s a good thing that the culinary partners change things up every week. There are always a lot of vegetarian options. As Mahalia says, “It’s a collaboration—it [the menu] changes a lot.”

While Kat bakes early every morning—producing fresh scones and Kaaba that typically sell out by noon, as well as cookies, brownies, muffins and pies—Mahalia bakes her famous Gila Gila Panaceas all day long, so that they are always hot-from-the-oven. The two work out each week’s soup and stew recipes together.

I went with Dan’s Papers’ View from the Garden columnist (and a vegetarian) Jeanelle Myers to check out the offerings. Our fellow East End farmers market fans will not only rejoice that Mahalia, whose panaceas have fed many a shopper and farmer, has found a permanent storefront, but also be glad that she’s brought many of her friends along. You can find products from area farmers market vendors including Backyard Brine pickles, Browser Birds’ honey and eggs, Charissa spice blend, Joe & Liza’s Ice Cream, North Fork Potato Chips and Talk Treats to Me dog snacks. Good food. also sells Justin’s Peanut Butter and select coffees and hot sauces. “They’re not [all] local but they’re good products,” notes Mahalia.

The space the partners created is airy with high ceilings and a large open kitchen behind the counter. Turquoise accents inform the vintage/modern vibe. The eatery’s metal shelving and high metal chairs that surround a central, communal table under rustic pendant lights complete the scene.

Magnolias map of Uruguay reminds customers of where she and her panaceas come from—though Magnolias panaceas are a healthy take on the traditional pastry. Jeanelle sampled the fresh spinach and feta, and the black bean and corn panaceas. My vegetarian dining partner heartily approved of these and of Magnolias equally renowned house made Churriguera sauce of fresh mint, parsley and cilantro.

And then there’s the bread pudding. I had heard tell of Karats masterstroke. I had the same reaction that everyone does: “Wow! Oh-my-God, it’s kills vanilla!” At least I assume that this is what everyone says on his or her first taste of this over-the-top confection. Mahalia commented, “Yeah, it’s pretty yum. We sell it frozen too—why deprive yourself?” Why indeed? But do take my advice and split a serving of this lusciousness if you have anything to do for the rest of the day. Yes it is made with croissants and yes sometimes they are chocolate croissants! Karats walnut torte is also worth noting—a textural delight—and it’s gluten- and dairy-free.

We also tried some soups and stews, including a butternut squash soup that offered flavorful layers of savory and sweet, a Thai curry stew with tender carrots, rice, eggplant and fresh ginger, and vegetarian chili served with sour cream and cheese.

We each ordered a Veggie Sampler of three side salads. They included a salad of farrow with criminal mushrooms and greens in a light vinaigrette, and a rustic and gorgeous coleslaw. My favorite was the kale salad with butternut squash and pleasantly crunchy almonds—its Parmesan sends it into Mamie overdrive. Jeanelle’s favorite was the Israeli couscous salad with feta, olives, cucumbers and red pepper.

Expansion is in the air for this coming summer. Good food. will extend their outdoor dining by adding an awning and they will be doing more event catering and take-out dinners. Just like last year, Good food. will have plenty of ginger soup, gazpacho and paella all season long.

On the South Fork, Good food.’s good foods can be found at the Narragansett Food Institute (AFR)Narragansett Farmers Market (panaceas) and at Sag town Coffee in Sag Harbor (panaceas, gluten-free cookies, quiche).

 If you’re passing through Matti tuck be sure to stop in, even if you just grab and go. As Mahalia says, “It’s all a quick bite. Where else can you get a good lunch for under $10?”